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Control Stick Linkage Arm |
This simply requires tapping and installing the rod ends. |
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Control Tube Installed |
The holes are drilled to accept AN3 bolts, then this is installed within the seat ribs. The washers are tricky to get in. I dropped them about 200 times. Try using a piece of tape to hold them with as you insert the AN3 bolts. |
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Elevator Pushrod End |
After priming the inside of the tube, the tapered aluminum plug is riveted in using blind rivets. |
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Elevator Bellcrank |
Here is the elevator bellcrank installed. You have to fabricate some bushings from aluminum tubing. A pushrod runs from this bellcrank foward to the control column. It is installed, but out of view here. Another pushrod (not installed yet) runs from the top of the elevator bellcrank aft to the elevator horns. |
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Control Tube to Elevator Bellcrank Pushrod |
This shows the forward end of the control tube from the control column to the elevator bellcrank. |
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Installed Elevator Push Rod |
A look into the tailcone after rigging up the elevator push-rod. |
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Right Rudder Pedal Dimension |
I hate to rail on about this, but if you are a QuikBuilder, CHECK THE WIDTH DIMENSION OF THE FUSELAGE WHERE THE UHMW BLOCKS GO BEFORE CUTTING THE RUDDER PEDAL TUBES TO THE DIMENSION CALLED OUT IN THE PLANS. |
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Left Rudder Pedal Dimension |
I am not sure if the dimensions were off on the plans, or if the width of the QB fuselage was off from the plans, but when the rudder pedal tubes were cut EXACTLY to the lengths specified on the plans, they were too short. Nylon washers will be inserted into the UHMW end blocks to eliminate the excessive end play. |
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Temporary Jig for the Rudder Pedals |
I clamped a piece of aluminum angle to the bottom of the pedals to set the alignment before drilling the holes which locate the brake master cylinders. After I looked at the rudder pedals in my 182, I decided to leave the aluminum on the brake pedals themselves bare, because they will get that way even if you paint them. |
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Rudder Cable Fairing |
I fabricated these rudder cable fairings from .020 aluminum per the plans on Sam Buchanan's website. Really simple-- it took about 25 minutes to make both of them.
|
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Rudder Cable in Fairing |
This is the rudder cable fairing I made from .020 aluminum. It's
riveted to the fuselage with blind rivets. |
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Rudder Stops |
These are rudder stops. The one on the left is built exactly
according to the plans. The one on the right is the one I had to
fabricate in order for the rudder swing to meet the specifications
called out in the rigging. My friend here (who has built several
RV's) saw the original ones I made and said "Uh-OH...looks like you
built these according to the plans! You'll have to re-do them".
I thought "no way", but yep, he was right. |
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Made-per-Plans Rudder Stop |
This is one of the original rudder stops. Don't contour the aft
end of the rudder stops until you are adjusting the rudder rigging! |
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Brake Master Cylinder |
There is a brake master cylinder for each brake pedal. Since this airplane will have brakes on both sides, that means four brake master cylinders will be installed.
Please be sure to see the Brakes and Rudder
page |
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Pop Riveting the Lower Rudder Tip |
Here I am riveting on the lower rudder fairing...with a light in my
face. Please be sure to also see the Empennage
page and the Fiberglass page. |
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Links for Rudder Cable |
These steel links are fabricated from blank material that is cut to
length and drilled as appropriate. The castle nuts are secured
with cotter pins...you don't want this connection coming loose. In
the very corner, just ahead of the forward end of the link you can see
the attachment point for a rudder centering spring I installed. |
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Rudder Cable Links |
Here you can see the end of the spring that I inserted into the weldment of both
left and right rudders. This will keep the rudder from blowing around in
the wind...it is not strong enough to bring the rudder to center when you
release pressure. |
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Manual Aileron Trim Handle |
A shot of the manual aileron trim handle. |
